Lisbon has sleek modern trams running along the River Tejo from Rossio in the city centre to Belem and Alges on the western periphery. The number 15 is a good way to reach the Belem ferry terminal and the Monument to the Discoveries - it's fast and frequent. But for me the highlight of a stay in Lisbon is a ride on the historic tramcars of the number 28. Starting in the leafy suburb of Estrela, the line takes you down a steep hill to the Basilica...
... and then past the imposing Parliament building, the Palacio de Sao Bento. From there it lurches up to the Bairro Alto, Lisbon's labyrinthine party district, and crosses atmospheric Chiado square before descending back down to grand, stately Praca do Comercio:
At this point the tram will become phenomenally full as all the tourists jump on - so make sure you're already sitting down, and preferably next to one of the large pull-down windows. It can get very hot in Lisbon over the summer, and as the tram winds its way up the ancient twisting cobbled streets of the Alfama some passengers find it more pleasant to ride along Indian-style...
The final section of route 28 takes you through ever narrower streets to the shady square at Graca and back down in a loop to the Metro station at Martim Moniz. Along the way you'll pass elderly men playing cards in their vests, little black cats nibbling at half-opened rubbish bags, and cheeky little street urchins kicking balls at gormless tourists. The tram drivers will all be busily texting each other on their mobile phones. It will be hot and sweaty - but it will be utterly unforgettable.
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